Tuesday, June 16, 2015

Getting Boat plans classic

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Friday, March 20, 2015

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Monday, March 2, 2015

Small Wooden Boat Plans How To Choose The Right Plan

One in the simplest type of boat a new newbie boat designer can start is a modest fire wood boat.Small fire wood motorboat programs are usually was required to take on actually this straightforward project.

Many issues moves in to the patterns along with strategies of your compact picket boat. Some stuff you might have and keep at heart are:

WOOD TYPE

Most utilize marine plywood, also rot protected wood like cedar and oaks are utilized to be able to make the hull. Wood are generally great to use given it cheap, readily out there anywhere, bouyant as well as every novice in ship setting up can easily assist wood.

It is designed for this reason that will just about anyone using a fantastic workable tiny wooden boat program and basic woodworking skills can easily can easily make a new boat.

BUILDING PROCESS

The more frequent way of building a little wooden cruiser will be ply u pon frame construction. It is easy to complete plus the most basic method to describe using these services is always that youd really need to develop a ship body straight into which plywood solar panels will be fixed to.
Another plus much more better building method is a stitch and glue procedure for construction. In the following method, you may need to minimize the plywood into predefined sizes and shapes reported by its parts. Then you will want to assemble everthing jointly by way of stitching that with real estate agent insert and applying epoxy to to be able to glue as well as populate this seams. There is usually simply no need for a frame and the structure can be reinforced using a fiberglass.

DESIGN

The design with the vessel depends basically on the particular intent for which anyone developed that boat. A small wooden motorboat generally is a dory, dinghy or possibly skiff and a person can simply outfit that pertaining to rowing, sailing, cruising, reef fishing and hunting purposes.

The thing is definitely there are a pretty usable smaller wood cruiser plans just before commencing thebuilding process. With a superb fishing boa t plan, you can apply away considering the stress in addition to mistakes that is definitely usually associated with ship building. That is the reason why it truly is critical which you get for yourself a compact wood plans you are able to very easily follow.

Personally, I identified a really specific boat programs which I find easy to be familiar with adequate pictures that will retains next to nothing on the imagination. You may look it over here:

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I find boat plans a big bonus and also Im confident it may possibly advantage anyone as well when you develop your boat.

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Design 2008 Sagitta 35

This handsome production yacht was built by the Sagitta Boat Company of Svendborg, Denmark in the early 1970s. She is a lovely racer-cruiser. Construction is solid skin fiberglass laminate with longitudinal stringers and a balsa cored deck.

Here are the plans.

Heres a peek at the underbody.

Thanks to the owner who sent these nice images.

Principal Dimensions
LOA 34-6"
LWL 25-6"
Beam 10-0"
Draft 6-0"
Displacement 10,210 lbs

Wood Boat Classic

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Sunday, March 1, 2015

Master List S S 8 Meter Designs

Here is a master list of S&S 8-Meters sorted by name, design number and year.

Saturday, February 28, 2015

Micro Joinery

I started off yesterday by lamenting my lack of woodworking knowledge. This is no joke. I have done just enough woodworking to realize how little I know, and how difficult it will be to accumulate the kind of experience that real woodworkers have.

For instance, in building my first few blocks (including more than a few that ended up on the scrap pile), I discovered how difficult it is to keep a flat surface flat while sanding or planing it. No matter how careful I was, I invariably ended up with a rounded surface (high in the middle with low spots on the edges) or a slanting surface (higher on one end than the other), or some even more complexly distorted surface. Anything but flat!

This makes it all but impossible to make good glue joints, which demand two flat surfaces, face to face.

I had been using thickened epoxy to fill the rolling gaps between the spacers and cheeks, but that kind of slap-dash approach didnt seem right to me this time... Surely it wasnt impossible to get two small bits of wood to match up perfectly. I was determined to discover this woodworking secret.

However, the first challenge was to extract two rough cheeks, and two rough spacers -- with the right grain dictions -- from the slab of white oak on my work bench. This wasnt too difficult. The slab was 10/8" thick, so I thought I could cut three 3/8" thick cheeks from one piece, allowing some loss from sawing.

I didnt take photos of this process, but here is the result: a roughly-square block, after the one 3/8" slice has been already been take off on the bandsaw. It only remains to re-saw this into two pieces that will become the cheeks.

A roughly square block

Even my less-than-professional quality bandsaw (thats putting a kind spin on it) is more than capable of doing the job quickly and neatly.

Re-sawn into two cheeks

I also cut out two spacers of the right size and grain orientation. Because Id made my previous blocks from finished boards, the grain in the spacers always had to be up and down. This created an end-grain glue joint, which as even I know, is almost the worst kind of glue joint (the worst being end-grain to end-grain.)

From the photo below, it looks like these roughly cut pieces are already flat. They are in fact close, but being freshly sawn, they need to be sanded smooth before assembly. This is where my previous efforts had turned nearly-flat bits of wood into smoothly-humped bits of wood. Very frustrating.

Spacer cut for a long-grain to long-grain glue joint

To solve this problem, I build a kind of sanding platform out of a piece of marine plywood and a strip of oak. I varnished it to make it easy to stick tape to (and because I think varnishing is fun.)

My flat-sanding jig

My basic idea was to tape sandpaper to the platform, using double-sided scotch tape, and just rub the piece on the flat sand paper. The theory was it would be impossible to round off the edges using this simple technique, and in fact, it worked perfectly!

The key to flat sanding: move piece, not sand paper!

The purpose of the oak strip was to make it easy to sand small pieces, like the spacers, while keeping the faces 90 degrees to each other. This was another problem Id had... when sanding with a sanding block, it is all to easy to end up with slanting faces.

By holding the piece against the rail and rubbing the piece up and down the rail, I was able to sand the piece while keeping the edges square to each other.

Keeping small pieces square

Finally, its important that the two spacers be the same height, for obvious reasons. Id already ruined several spacers by sanding a bit off this one, then a bit off the other, trying to make them the same size, but ending up with two toothpicks.

By holding the two spacers pressed together, it was easy to sand them both at the same time, thus guaranteeing two spacers of the same height.

Two spacers exactly the same size! Wow!

Im sure real woodworkers have a more efficient way of doing this, but this approach didnt require the purchase of any new equipment (Im determined to make these blocks for as nearly free as possible) or sophisticated techniques. With some double-sided tape and various grades of big-box sand paper, I ended up with smooth, square, and flat cheeks and spacers.

Whew!

Heres how the bits look when laid together for fit. I discovered I could actually make the block a bit smaller than I had planned, so the cheeks are a little long.

I cut the recess in the bottom spacer and the rope-groove in the top spacer using my micro-plane rasps, as shown in a previous blog post.

How the pieces fit together

By this time, I had a lot of work invested in those small pieces, so I was strangely reluctant to glue them together, less I make some fatal mistake. But after much dithering, I gathered my courage and took the final step.

The moment of truth...

And here is the assembly, glued up. Its really difficult to put clamps on such a small assembly without moving something out of line, so rather than use clamps, I just put a 5 lb. pig of lead on top of the whole thing (with saran wrap in-between). This gives moderate clamping pressure, without the risk of ruining the assembly at the last moment.

At least, that was the theory. Only time would tell. But as I was gazing admiringly at this tiny bit of woodwork, I realized Id made one potentially serious mistake...

>>> Next Episode: Tail Block Takes Shape

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Beginner

Tuesday, June 16, 2015

Getting Boat plans classic

Help Boat plans classic

Secret Boat plans classic

info Boat plans classic

Friday, March 20, 2015

Hot Nz wooden boat plans

Knowing Nz wooden boat plans

Secret Nz wooden boat plans

specific niche market Nz wooden boat plans

Monday, March 2, 2015

Small Wooden Boat Plans How To Choose The Right Plan

Design 2008 Sagitta 35

Wood Boat Classic

Sunday, March 1, 2015

Master List S S 8 Meter Designs

Saturday, February 28, 2015

Micro Joinery

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